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90% Mercerized Wool / 10% Mulberry Silk
SM · Yarn Programme

90% Mercerized Wool / 10% Mulberry Silk

90% mercerized wool with 10% mulberry silk, worsted-spun. The wool is de-scaled for a smooth, non-itch, pill-resistant finish; the silk adds fine lustre and drape. 60NM/2 2-ply worsted gives thin, dense, breathable fabric.

Composition
90% mercerized wool · 10% mulberry silk
Specification
60NM/2
Process
Worsted
Gauge
16G
Colours
41 colours
Season
Autumn / Winter · all-season
PDFFull specification provided as a downloadable PDF spec sheet.
⬇ Download Spec Sheet

90% mercerized wool 10% mulberry silk

Zhengqian mercerized wool mulberry silk composition specification 60NM/2 mercerized for softness, mulberry silk for luster

Color Swatches

Craft & Finishing

Highlights

  • Composition: 90% mercerized wool + 10% mulberry silk worsted blend, with wool as the main body ensuring warmth and elasticity, and mulberry silk as an accent enhancing luster and quality.
  • Process: The wool is first mercerized (de-scaled) to passivate the scales and make the yarn smooth and lustrous; it is then blended and worsted-spun with mulberry silk sliver, giving a clean yarn with few hairs.
  • Specification: 60NM/2 high-count two-ply worsted, fine yarn count, even yarn evenness, good strength, light and dense fabric surface, suitable for medium-thin styles and close-fitting knitwear.
  • Hand feel: Mercerized wool is smooth and non-itchy, combined with the softness of mulberry silk, the hand feel is delicate, soft and moist, with a silky luster and drape, no itchiness against the skin.
  • Performance: De-scaled mercerization brings three major improvements: anti-shrinkage, anti-pilling and skin-friendliness; mulberry silk is moisture-absorbing and breathable, making the fabric soft, lustrous and not stuffy.

Recommended Flat-bed Gauge

  • Main recommendation: 16 gauge (16G) — matches the 60NM/2 high count, flat and delicate fabric surface, moderate thickness, for medium-thin sweaters.
  • Light/thin gauge: 18 gauge (18G) — reduce yarn feed, for close-fitting base layers, thin sweaters and delicate accessories.
  • Thick/loose fit: 14 gauge (14G) — on the thicker side, or ply the yarn to increase thickness for outerwear inner layers (12G requires plying).
  • Tip: Mercerized yarn has a smooth surface and low friction coefficient, so winding and yarn guide parts need to be smooth, and tension should be small and stable to avoid slippage and yarn breakage; with high mulberry silk content and a clean yarn body, machine speed and drafting should not be too aggressive to prevent snagging and hairs. Knit a swatch before machine operation to confirm density, shrinkage and hand feel.

Washing & Finishing Steps

  1. 1Sorting and lot matching: Sort by style number, color number and dye lot, wash the same batch and same dye lot together; separate dark and light colors to avoid color bleeding and dye lot differences.
  2. 2Rinsing to remove sizing and dirt: Warm water around 30℃ + neutral detergent, gently remove loose hairs, oil stains and sizing; strong alkali and chlorine bleach are strictly prohibited to prevent mercerized wool from yellowing and mulberry silk from losing luster and becoming brittle.
  3. 3Softening/anti-shrinkage finishing: Mercerized wool has already been anti-shrinkage treated, no milling needed; add hydrophilic softener to improve hand feel, enhance smoothness and stabilize dimensions.
  4. 4Dewatering and shaping: Low-speed dewatering, strictly no wringing or vigorous rubbing, pre-shape the garment while wet to prevent felting, wrinkling and deformation.
  5. 5Drying/shade drying: Low-temperature drying or lay flat to dry in the shade to 80%; avoid high-temperature exposure to prevent mercerized wool from yellowing and mulberry silk strength from decreasing.
  6. 6Panel pressing: Steam-press each garment panel once before sewing, at medium temperature with a pressing cloth, to eliminate wrinkles and stabilize dimensions.
  7. 7Garment pressing: After sewing is completed, steam-press the whole garment once on a mannequin to set the shape; control steam and pressing time to prevent glazing and pressure marks on mercerized fabric.
  8. 8Re-pressing and finishing: Press easily wrinkled parts such as neckline, placket, hem and cuffs once more to ensure a flat, crisp and clean line.
  9. 9Quality inspection and packaging: Inspect dimensions, color difference, pilling, snagging, stains and pressing effect, bag after passing inspection, and store with attention to moisture, insect and sun protection.

Care Instructions

  • Washing: Warm water below 30℃, select the "wool/gentle" program or hand wash; use neutral detergent, no bleaching or strong alkali.
  • Drying: After washing, gently press out water (never wring, never spin dry), lay flat to dry in the shade, avoid hanging and stretching out of shape.
  • Ironing: Iron at medium-low temperature with a pressing cloth and steam, best done when 70% dry; mercerized fabrics should not be pressed directly at high temperature to avoid glazing.
  • Storage: Fold and lay flat, keep dry and ventilated, add insect repellent; avoid long-term hanging and heavy pressure.

Key Features

  • ✓Mercerized & skin-friendly — scale-free, smooth, soft lustre
  • ✓Silk-enriched — 10% mulberry silk for lustre and drape
  • ✓60NM/2 — worsted 2-ply, thin, dense, breathable
Applications: Fine knits · base layers · turtlenecks · dresses